le 23 janvier

     The other day I mentioned how we went to the Sherlock Holmes movie premiere to pretty much stalk Jude Law. Here is a photo from a tabloid, the hands closest to the camera with the blue sleeves belong to one of the girls I was with:

Jude Law, "Sherlock Holmes II" Paris premiere

     Close to famous! ;)

     ILP (the intensive language program - week one of the semester) finally ended Friday and on Saturday we went on a day trip to the small town of Metz in northeastern France, part of an area whose ownership has historically been disputed between France and Germany. Le Centre Pompidou, the large modern art museum in Paris, opened a new, smaller branch (primarily on architecture) in Metz two years ago. We took an 8a.m. RER (French high-speed train) to Metz, visited the museum, had lunch at a local restaurant, and then went on a walking tour around the town.

     Word to the wise: what we refer to as an "entrée" in the United States is not an entrée in France. When we go out to eat with the program, the meal is pre-ordered. We were trying to identify what was being served to us when we spotted the menu for our group on the wall. "Entrée," we read. "Quiche Lorraine." It was a really large piece and came with a salad and everything, so we devoured it and then were surprised to find a plate of beef and potatoes put in front of us soon after we finished. Oops. It now makes sense that the appetizer is called an entrée because it is how you "enter" the meal. We also found out from another student who was here last semester that even at a restaurant it is impolite not to finish your entire meal and you most certainly do not carry your leftovers out of the restaurant. That is cheap. I have also heard that you should always try to speak French at a restaurant (we always do anyway) otherwise they sometimes charge Americans (or maybe any foreigner) more for the meal. Thankfully, we have not run into that problem. I think it is saved for the more timid, unaware tourist.

     Metz itself was very nice. It is much different than Paris, less modern and edgy, and you could definitely sense the German influence. There was a small rally going on in one square we passed through where the people were advocating for the legalization of marijuana, and it was really funny because the two people who were signing the poster as we walked by were two elderly individuals; they did not fit the image of who I would normally expect to be there. As in Paris, there were a ferris wheel and a merry-go-round in different parts in the town. I love that the French seem to love to place them randomly. A merry-go-round in an alley? Why not?

Saint Étienne de Metz - It hosts the largest collection of stained glass in the entire world.

Many of the banks are closed in Metz because of the recent economic upheaval. 

Saint Étienne de Metz

     Sunday morning, Devan and I went to 11:30a.m. mass at Notre Dame. This is our second time going to mass at a large French cathedral, and both times receiving communion has been one of the most aggressive, animalistic experiences of my life. Last week, I got separated from Devan and her host family, who were right behind me, because everyone cut in front of them. I got lost and could not find where we were sitting in the large crowd, and I had to awkwardly walk up the center aisle again when I saw them. Communion at Notre Dame was like a weekly feeding in a shark tank. Everyone leapt up at once and bulldozed towards the alter. I thought I was going to lose a limb, but I only ended up losing Devan. I do not know if I liked mass at Notre Dame. It was really interesting to experience it in such an infamous, large, beautiful cathedral, but due to its fame, it also felt like a show because you have tourists flowing in and out of the church at the same time, directed up the sides and around the back of the alter while they take pictures. One of the ushers also came up to us and told us to take our bags off of our seats, and to take them up with us to get communion, which I am presuming is because they have probably had problems with pickpockets and thieves and they do not want to be held accountable.


     After mass we stopped to get banana and Nutella crêpes, now a staple, and then went to the famous flea market, "un marché aux puces," in the 18th arrondissement. It was not as spectacular as we were expecting, but still amazing to see. 200,000 people pass by every weekend. I expected it to be held on a large field possibly (I guess my only basis for reference is the Londonderry, NH flea market - what a difference!), but instead vendors line the small side streets of the area.

     We walked the Champs-Élysees, where I went into the Louis Vuitton store and touched items worth more than my life. I knew it was expensive but I did not know it was that expensive. They were not exactly hosting those January French sales.


     We had our first day of real classes today. My schedule worked out really well; I have four classes on Monday but none on Tuesday or Friday. Devan and Maria are both in four of my five classes, and I share a few of the same classes with other students, too. I have to take two classes, a grammar class and a conversation class, and three other content courses which can be in either English or French. I opted to take an education course (French) where for part of the course we will be teaching French students English, a history course on post-war France (English) which so far is surprisingly interesting even despite my usual aversion to history, and my last class is a sort of art history/ architecture course (English) on Paris sites, where we get to actually go out and visit the monuments and places that we learn about.

     Tomorrow I am off to see the catacombs and explore the Left Bank. I am sure will have lots to show from there.

     Bissous!

le 12 janvier

     Everything really is better in Paris. Except for the sidewalks - they have these waist-high poles every few feet that I am pretty certain are strategically placed to make unaware tourists like myself stumble down the sidewalks, a comedy show for the locals.

     Chocolate has been present at every single meal so far, including breakfast (I am not complaining, but my pants might start to if this keeps up). Last night for dessert we had a molten chocolate lava sort of cake and it was so inexplicably incredible. I do not know how they get something to be both cake and smooth, melted chocolatey goodness but it works and it was absolute heaven. My mother might be interested to know that they do have cereal here; not like in the states, and I have only seen it at a carnival crepe stand and the hotel, so maybe it is directed at tourists, but they have Rice Krispies and Corn Flakes. Probably as close to boxed, processed corn and sugar breakfast "foods" as I am going to get here. And when a chocolate croissant and baguettes and fruits and yogurt and Nutella and cheeses are in among the selection front of you, who would choose the cereal?

     We eat so much at every meal I do not understand how I have continued to be hungry by the next meal, but I am. Spaghetti and pizza for lunch yesterday and today, respectively; heavier foods I would normally have for dinner at home, if at all. Pastries are everywhere and I swear, every other person walking down the street has a baguette in hand. Also, on a random note, last night dinner (paid for by the program) was amazing, one of the best meals I have ever had at a very classy place where we were served wine (weird), but after we finished eating a cat walked through our section of the restaurant. Bizarre.

     Today started out with breakfast downstairs at the hotel cafe around 08:45. The sunrise is so late in Paris. I Googled it: http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/sunrise.html and there are only seven hours of daylight. I still do not understand why though - this is why I am an English major. We visited the center where our classes will be. Paris is separated into 20 (I think) "arrondissements," or districts, which are numbered in an outward spiral beginning at the center of the city. The school is in the 11th arrondissement. The street name signs signify what arrondissement you are in, very convenient when you get lost like we did tonight.

     Tonight we were on our own for dinner. A few girls we were walking with got falafel at a local place near the hotel, but since most of what was on the menu contained chickpeas, which Devan is allergic to, the two of us went to find somewhere else. We first walked into a place called Iguana. It was fairly busy with French patrons so we figured it would be a good chance. When we walked in, there was no hostess and after standing by the doors for a few minutes, we decided you were probably supposed to seat yourselves. There were two levels to Iguana - the ground floor had the bar and was mostly crowded, so we walked to the second floor (or in French, the first floor) where it was just seating and where we saw the billing/ check computer was located. We sat at a table; a while later, a waitress came by and did not say anything to us but picked up what we thought was a menu. It was a check from the people before us, apparently. Strike one.

     We looked through the menus and decided we would each order a drink, to celebrate, and a meal. She came back a while later, we ordered our drinks in French, she responded in English, took our menus, and walked away before we could order any food. She laid out tablecloths for other customers who planned on eating, and those only drinking had a bare table with a candle like us. She did not return until at least about 15 minutes later so we figured that we would just pay for the drinks and find a small local cafe or sandwich shop to get food, because at this point it was so late and we had been sitting at Iguana for so long. We finished our drinks - mojitos, awesome - and asked her for the check. To our delight it was half-price happy hour Thursday. We gave her the euros and left. Which, by the way is something new I have learned; in France, unlike the United States, it is not customary to leave a large tip. A couple of euro will is generally appropriate, and the same goes for taxi rides.

     So nearby we found a little take-out sandwich place where the man working, "James Bond," was so nice and so funny. He told us he wants to travel to the United States one day. After asking us where Hollywood is, he said he wanted to travel there because he wants to ask Britney Spears to marry him. Definitely a good life goal.

     Earlier today the program also took us to get our cell phones. Most people just bought cheap European phones but a couple of us got SIM cards for our smartphones which I think will actually end up being more expensive and more confusing but oh well. When I dial and text other French numbers I have to change the beginning of the number since my phone itself is American. I think I will only be texting for the most part and I will only have three hours of phone time through the next two months but it is better than nothing, just enough to keep in touch, and it is pretty refreshing not being attached to a phone all day. I also cannot send any international texts and I am about to find out if my international calling works soon when I try to call my mother. T-Mobile definitely lied or is just stupid and did not know when the rep told me that I would be able to connect to BBM and make phone calls over wi-fi, or use my phone on a French network with my American SIM card just for an increased price. None of that was possible.

    We also got our Metrocards today which are so official, with a picture of us on it and everything. We have already used the metro several times. It seems overwhelming because there are so many people using it and there are so many lines and so many stops, but really, after looking over it, it is very clear, convenient, and comprehensive. It can bring you anywhere in Paris, and even after only using it a few times, it is clear that it is the way to travel the city.

     Last night we separated into groups and student tour guides (who are past participants of the program and/or local French students) led us on a two-hour walk around the city. The walking was aimless and casual, but it was the perfect way to spend the first night taking in Parisian life. Everywhere you turn there is a monument in the middle of the street, or a museum, or a beautiful old building. The alleyways and sidestreets are picturesque. It is everything I have dreamed it would be. Tonight we were taken on a boat ride up the Seine. When we got off the metro on our way there, we turned the corner after a building and I was fumbling through my purse for something when I heard the words "Eiffel Tower" and I looked up and literally yelped. One of the girls turned around and gave me a completely judgmental glare but I could not care less. I have always known it was big, but even after visiting it, it is difficult to comprehend just how massive, especially at the base, la tour Eiffel is. Since we took the boat ride at sundown we got to see the tower's light show; something like every hour after sunset, the Eiffel Tower starts sparkling as if it were covered in glitter or diamonds. So beautiful, as is the entirety of the buildings on the streets lining that section of the Seine.

     The hotel we have been staying in is small and simple but clean and comfortable. Another thing about Paris is that generally homes and apartments (and our hotel) do not have showers like the United States, but those mounted bendable hose shower heads instead which require lots of coordination that I do not possess. To my delight however, Father Ray if you are reading this, is that every bathroom I have been in so far has in fact had toilet paper. It would be a nightmare otherwise. The room also has a large window with only a chain lock, and it swings opens inward with no screen or preventative measures of any sort. In France, this is called a window (that works) "une fenêtre (qui fonctionne)"... in the United States, I think this is called "a lawsuit waiting to happen."

     I have taken a few photos with my old camera (it was easier to carry around while I got accustomed to the city the past few days) but I forgot that cord at home, so I will be uploading pictures but not until this weekend, maybe tomorrow, when I start taking pictures with my new one. Tomorrow is the big day when we move in with our host families, as well. We will find out who they are and we must call them, introduce ourselves and ask them what time they would like us to come. We then must call for a taxi (all of this is supervised by program coordinators and staff, they want to ensure we are getting the experience we need to succeed in Paris) and travel to the home by ourselves or likely with another student who is assigned to a home nearby. Intimidating. It will be nice to settle and unpack though, because I hate living out of a suitcase and it still does not feel real that we are in Paris and I think it may be partially because of the hotel.

   Oh, and one more thing - aside from seeing the Eiffel Tower, the highlight of the day was most definitely when Devan, our new friend Rachel, and I were mistaken for native Parisians. A man asked me if I knew the area well, and how to get to some place, and when I replied with "Je suis désolé, mais je ne sais pas" he looked pretty disappointed to realize we were Americans. It was awesome.

    More to come soon! Bisous!